For a suburb that is just about 25 sq kms in total, Bandra is quite the draw. Today, people gravitate towards it for its hipster vibe, pockets of old-world charm, and lively social spaces. With a colourful past and an even more complicated present, Bandra offers a microcosm of the larger city of Mumbai.
When I was younger, Bandra was where we went to meet family. Today, my family and I have recently moved to Bandra, and it feels like I’m discovering the neighbourhood in a new light. It was with this investigative spirit that I decided to deep dive into Bandra’s past to help me focus with a fresh perspective on my new home.
A Brief History of Bandra
The story of Bandra can be traced back to 1530. Once a sleepy fishing village on the island of Salsette, Bandra was pretty much left to its own devices until the Portuguese arrived on the scene. Portuguese explorers and sailors came to Bombay to trade spices. However, when they reached, they realised that piracy was their only recourse to getting what they wanted. Since they had already mastered the fine art of battle using cannons and guns, they set up shop in Bandra and built several forts along the coastline to store their stolen goods and rest between raids. As a result, Bandra (or Salsette Island), along with the other islands that made up Bombay at the time, came firmly under Portuguese rule. To appease God for their nefarious activities, these pirates/rulers soon brought in Jesuit priests and, as a fair barter for their past misdeed, handed them Salsette Island to rule (and convert the natives).
All was smooth until the British arrived. In 1661, Bombay was famously given off as part of a dowry to the English King. At first, Salsette was not part of this gift, but after a 1775 treaty, it became part of the British Empire. Not much changed in Bandra after that, though. It continued to be a sleepy fishing village that was pretty much left to its own devices. However, the Civil War in America changed the course of Bandra’s history forever.
With England’s increasing demand for cotton and America not playing fair, India stepped in and saved the day. The East India Company was quickly formed, and several private traders got into the act. These individuals later went on to form some of the biggest industrial families in India. At the time, though, the British preferred that these upcoming families live at a distance – not too close but not too far either. The island of Salsette became the place to be for the who’s who at the time (not too different from today!). Bungalows were built, a town planning scheme was installed, bylanes and pathways were created, and a pretty little suburb flourished.
The only hitch about living in Salsette / Bandra was the difficulty getting to mainland Bombay. Cue the Mahim Causeway, Once this connecting road was built over the Mahim creek and Bandra got its own railway station along the South Bombay – Thane line, there was no looking back. The suburb continued to develop and prosper, with the rich quietly getting richer and richer. And I repeat, not much different from today.
Bandra attracted artists, politicians, and most importantly…actors as the years passed. When Mehboob Khan set up his studio in Bandra in 1954, many film stars flocked to the area. Today, Bandra is still home to some of the biggest names in Bollywood and any city tour worth its salt will take you on a drive past most of their famous abodes.
And there we have the history of Bandra in a nutshell. Nearly 500 years of trading, piracy, Christianity, industry, wealth, and glamour neatly packed into just 25 odd square kilometres of city space. It’s no wonder then that a Bandra address holds a sense of allure, even after all this time.
Bandra Now
Today, Bandra is packed with glitzy residential towers and the odd period bungalow that has managed to escape redevelopment. The roads are chock full of traffic at any given point of the day. You can’t walk a foot without stumbling into a chi-chi restaurant or a mom-and-pop run cafe. The nightlife is hopping with clubs and bars in every nook and corner, and the shopping is a mix of street fashion and designer boutiques. The sleepy island of Salsette has come a long way, baby!
So, where does one go if you want to experience the buzz of Bandra? Wonder no more…here’s a list of the must-see places the next time you are this side of town. Don’t @ me for not including your favourites, this list is a work in progress and a cumulation of my discoveries over the past year of living in Bandra.
For a moment’s peace and quiet – head to Mount Mary Church atop a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea. Also known as the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, legend goes that Portuguese sailors found the statue of Mother Mary from a shipwreck and built a church around this holy relic. It is believed that making a wish at the Mount is bound to come true, and the church attracts hundreds of visitors daily.
Make your way down to Bandra Fort for a slice of living history. Yes, the very same fort was built by Portuguese pirates/invaders. Also known as Castella de Aguada or Waterfront Fort, it survives to this day as a brilliant example of architecture. Today, you can pack a wee picnic or just sit on the ramparts and enjoy the spectacular sunsets.
For the best sunsets – speaking of sunsets and sundowners, there’s no better place in Bandra than the breeze-blown Bandstand and Carter Road Promenade. Both these sea-facing walkways have been beautified and pedestrianised for maximum appeal. Enjoy a brisk evening walk fortified with warm roasted peanuts and fresh coconut water. If you prefer your morning run with fewer crowds and street dogs, head to Jogger’s Park at one end of Carter Road. With three types of walking/running tracks and an idyllic duck pond in the centre, it’s a lovely, safe place to burn off those calories.
There are no better shopping destinations for blingy jewellery and trendy clothes than Linking Road and Hill Road. With fashionable footwear, handbags and accessories, the stretch of Linking Road is crammed with boutiques and street stalls to suit every budget. For factory surplus clothes, evening wear, lingerie, textiles, and handicrafts, make your way to Hill Road. There are plenty of eateries and food stalls along both roads to address those mid-shopping hunger pangs as well.
For a blast from the past – Ranwar and Chuim Village are tiny hamlets within the buzz of Bandra. Wooden roofs bow under the weight of bougainvillaea trees, cottages with wraparound verandahs give off a distinctly Goan vibe, brightly coloured doors with nameplates that date back decades, and narrow pathways meander through these ‘modern villages.’ Companies like Khaki Tours conduct walking tours if you want to know more about Ranwar and Chuim.
My Top Ten Bandra Must-Dos
- Anokhi for traditional block prints and breezy cotton dresses
- Bastian for the most indulgent Sunday brunch
- Boojee for kickass coffee and freshly baked bread
- Perch for an innovative cocktail menu and laid-back vibe
- Arife for all your baking needs
- Carter Road khau gully for shawarmas, boba tea, and momos
- Elco for pani puri and kulfi falooda
- Candies for the best chicken sandwiches ever
- Cheap Jack for quirky gifts and stationery
- Thrift Store by Bombay Closet Cleanse for awesome pre-loved fashion at budget prices
A single visit to Bandra will only scratch the surface of this vibrant, multicultural, and, dare I say it, trendy neighbourhood. It begs you to return again and again and discover something new with every visit. As time goes by, the place gets under your skin. You begin to stride through its streets comfortably. You know where the best deals are and which restaurant serves the best coffee/cake/kebabs. Soon, people ask you for your recommendations, and that’s when you know – you are finally home.
This was a commissioned piece but all views expressed are my own
